September 11 in Zanzibar
September 11th. The date and those buildings are so very far away now, it’s hard to imagine New York. It’s slipping away from me, the park, the pace, the promise of autumn that wafts through the last few days of summer. Like a petticoat flaring up on a breeze. How refreshing it would be for just a few days to return to my New York life.
But here I sit, at this moment, in the UN sub-office compound in Zanzibar. I had a great meeting with Krispin, who started JP5 and has been an amazing source of candid information about the program, its governance and its challenges. They have spent quite a lot of money in the past 15 months, almost $1 million, excluding any employment costs. That’s just for the interventions.
Krispin and I talked at length about the per diem challenges. And he provided a little perspective from the ground: Even a well-paid government official – a regional officer, for example – is paid only 120,000 shillings a month (less than $100). Yes, he may have a driver, but no wonder they look at me for all my protestations about money, as someone who can easily afford to pay. I go to Dar es Salaam and spend more than they make in a month on wine, chocolate and a jar of peanut butter.
